Much of the Wild Coast is off the beaten track. But from Kei Mouth to Kentani it was completely lost. To this day, this area of the Eastern Cape has been largely unexplored by travellers. It’s easy to see why. In order to get from one town to another, you have to cross the Grand Kai River by pontoon. This rare mode of transportation requires driving your car onto a giant float and sliding along the water. Who needs roads?
The hike begins in the surprisingly busy town of Kaikou. Here, life is centered on the estuary. Fishermen set off to catch the day’s catch and sometimes sail into the ocean for deep-sea fishing. Ospreys perch on trees on river banks, while kingfishers fly above the water.
For those unfamiliar with the area, there are multiple ways to explore its landscapes. Jog through the beach along the horseback riding trail, or explore the nearby forest. From the main road to Signal Hill, a short walk is a short walk to several viewpoints overlooking the sea. Kei Mouth is also the starting point for the four-day Strandloper Trail. The rest of town is full of novelties. The Hazelnut Jeffries Shell Museum displays a large collection of marine treasures. Five minutes away, a 1960s jet is parked at the entrance to the Morganville Farm Motorcycle Museum. Hundreds of bicycles, old helicopters, and even double-decker buses are on display. This is just one side of the big koi.
The only bridge that needs to be crossed is 70 kilometers away and takes several hours to travel. For a faster journey, opt for a pontoon ferry that makes it easy for people, cars, and even the occasional horse and cattle to cross the wide strait. The vessel operates every day of the year and can accommodate two motor vehicles at a time. The cruise takes only five minutes to cross the river, and passengers can enjoy the breeze blowing on the water.
On the other side, R349 winds through unspoiled rural areas. The gravel road winds its way and is dotted with some roundhorned antelopes, strolling cows and goats. An hour’s drive later, the small town of Kentani comes into view. The area has a population of less than 2,000 people, but is the stronghold of Xhosa culture.
The journey from Kei Mouth to Kentani is quintessential Eastern Cape tour. Between vast rivers and large tracts of land, forget the traditional route. To experience the richness of the area, climb the pontoon.